More Chiapas: Bonampak and Yaxchilan

Bonampak is a relatively small Maya site but I truly enjoyed being able to visit this place right smack in the middle of the jungle! Bonampak is a Classic Period (250CE-800/900CE) site that was subjected to Piedras Negras and then Yaxchilan. Most of its architecture dates from about 580CE-800CE. It is famous for its murals found in structure 1 (Temple of the Murals-in one of my pics below you can see structure 1 to the far right with scaffolding) but I was impressed with Bonampak because of its location in the middle of nowhere and even for its diminutive nature, I found it to be fascinating particularly for what we still do not know. I was very excited to see the murals for myself and to experience my 2nd Maya site (Yaxchilan was earlier that day and knowing now that Bonampak was subjected to the power of Yaxchilan makes sense because of its smaller size and its proximity to Yaxchilan). Anyways, I loved seeing two Maya sites in one day. I cannot wait to post my visit to Palenque, but these two sites were impressive in their own ways.

Here are some of the images from the famous Bonampak murals which date to about 790CE, just before the beginning of the ninth century. They were painted as frescos and I am amazed that they even still exist (after more than 1200 years!!) and can be seen! I was absolutely astounded by these murals; and so ecstatic to be able to see these firsthand, with my own eyes. I know that it's a bit difficult to see the images; over time they have really faded and we were only allowed into two of the three rooms as one of them, I guess, is being reconstructed. Also, it is difficult to take pictures of these murals without a flash (because of course that is not allowed) and you aren't allowed to really enter the room; there is railing that prevents you from going past the first two or three feet into the room. But I thoroughly enjoyed coming to Bonampak to see these still impressive murals that document a procession of musicians, the sacrifice of scribes (which is of special interest for me and my thesis), a king being dressed and attended to by royal courtiers, and other interesting court activities.

Although Bonampak is famous for the murals of structure 1, I found that these stelae were fascinating and very detailed. The largest one is quite large and found in the middle of the grounds at Bonampak. Bonampak is not a big site but it was very interesting and I am so glad that I was able to come to this site and witness the murals, the stelae, the dense jungle, and the intricacies of a smaller Maya site.

This final series of five photos are of Yaxchilan. I made a little error when creating this blog entry but I don't really care that it's a little out of sequence. So this shows what has been called the smallest ball court in Mesoamerica, the front of the Temple 33, some other buildings around the site of Yaxchilan (including the long descent from the Temple 33 to the ground), and the Ceiba tree which was and is an important element for the Maya.

So the very first Maya site that I have ever been to was Yaxchilan (Yash-chee-laan). I absolutely loved it! We had to get on these little boats and take a 45min ride on the Usumacinta River in order to get to Yaxchilan (in

the picture looking out from the boat Mexico is on the left and Guatemala is on the right). Yaxchilan is right in the middle of the jungle so it was rather humid. It is situated on a bend in the Usumacinta. It's location provides a natural area of surrounding hills that the Maya viewed as a horizon calendar and the early rulers of Yaxchilan no doubt substantiated their right to power by reading the interplay of astronomy and landscape. Some inscriptions found at Yaxchilan indicate that the Classic Period dynasty was started by King Yopaat B'alam I in 359CE. The inscriptions also display Yaxchilan's involvement in the skirmishes of the day, particularly in regards to Piedras Negras, Yaxchilan's closest neighbor. Yaxchilan is famous for some wooden lintels that were found at the site but that now reside in foreign museums. It is a rather large site and I loved seeing the main parts of it.

This is actually the backside of Temple 33. I thought that it was fascinating to see this structure through the trees as we came walking up the path. This site is literally right in the middle of the jungle. Also, when they first excavated this building, they found the beheaded statue and wondered where the head could be. As they further excavated, they found the head in the very next room. I thought that was interesting. It was extremely hot and humid as we walked around Yaxchilan but of course, I enjoyed it because it was, after all, my very first Maya site to visit.

And here are a few more images from Yaxchilan. It is a beautiful site and I really enjoyed being here. The Ancient Maya were great builders but they never figured out a "true" arch and I find that fact interesting. Because of that, I am including a picture of the "Maya" arch which allowed them to expand upon spaces but not like they could have if they had known about a true arch. Anyways, the site was pretty big but we were only given an hour and a half with the guide so we could only see and speak about the main buildings around Yaxchilan.

A Few Views of Chiapas

I had to include some of my favorite photos of Canon del Sumidero, our very first stop in Chiapas. The Canon (or canyon in English- sorry but I can't seem to be able to add accent marks and the first n in canon is missing a tilda, that little squiggly mark that makes it sound like a 'y') is located in Chiapa de Corzo, the first little pueblo that we went to. So we all got into these little boats and took an hour-long ride throughout the canyon and some of it was really breathtaking. I wasn't too crazy about seeing this crocodile up close and out in nature but luckily he/she didn't come after me (I knew it just couldn't wait to attack me and eat me- that's a nice irrational fear that I share with some of my sisters). Anyways, it was a great start for my trip to Chiapas and I cannot wait to post more from the trip!!

The first few of these pics are from San Cristobal de las Casas, one of the main towns in Chiapas that the EZLN (Ejercito Zapatista de la Liberacion Nacional) took control of during their uprising on January 1st, 1994, the day that NAFTA went into effect. I really liked San Cristobal; the weather was rather mild compared to other places in Chiapas and I really liked the church on the main square. We only had a few hours here in the afternoon before we had to get to sleep and be up and ready to go the next morning. I hope that I can someday go back and spend more time there. I also included a few pics of the Cascadas (Waterfalls) in El Chiflon. They were really pretty and the one that I am standing in front of was by far the biggest and longest one as it dropped from far above where we were.

Here are some pics from Comitan, a beautiful little pueblo found in the heart of Chiapas. I thought that the yellow church was rather unique and the buildings surrounding the zocalo of Comitan were also pretty and different. And I included another few pics from Laguna Montebello. Chiapas is a very beautiful state and the greenest one that I have seen in Mexico. There are so many forests and jungles and the landscape is basically all green, including the surrounding hills and mountains.

And here are a few more images from Chiapas. I was pleasantly surprised to find myself at the Guatemala border, crossing illegally and enjoying every minute of it. It really makes me want to actually visit Guatemala but I found the experience quite amusing. A few of these pictures are of the borderlands between Guatemala and Chiapas and one of the photos is from Laguna Montebello, a beautiful place found in the dense forests of Chiapas (where else?) that has many lagunas.