Mayapan

Mayapan is a Late Postclassic (1250-1450 CE) Maya archaeological site that sits 24 miles southeast of Merida in the state of Yucatan. At its height, Mayapan's territory extended for 1.5 square miles. It contains a fortified wall that surrounds 4,000 structures (excavations are ongoing). Mayapan was originally under the influence and reign of Chichen Itza, but when that city fell and was abandoned, Mayapan became the independent political capital of a Maya kingdom that ruled over northwestern Yucatan. Local inhabitants have always known about the ruins here and colonial accounts, such as Bishop Diego de Landa's "Relacion de las Cosas de Yucatan" included descriptions of Mayapan. According to legend, Mayapan was founded by the culture hero (to be distinguished from the Maya god) Kukulkan after the fall of Chichen. He fled Chichen with a group of his acolytes and founded the city of Mayapan. Once he left Mayapan, a leader from the Cocom family took power at Mayapan. Archaeological evidence demonstrates structures at Mayapan were burned around 1450 CE and the city was abandoned by the time of the arrival of the Spaniards. Many artifacts have been recovered at Mayapan; they include effigy incense burners with images similar to those found in Central Mexico, bells, rings, obsidian tools and jade (probably from Guatemala). These artifacts display Mayapan's connection to "international" trade and communication networks. It is a fascinating site that closely resembles (in a smaller scale) the site of Chichen Itza. I had a wonderful time here at Mayapan! 

The "main" attraction found in the ceremonial precinct of Mayapan is the miniature "copy" of El Castillo at Chichen Itza. As you can see in the first photo, the steps toward the bottom are still intact, but the higher up one goes, the more difficult it becomes to maintain balance. All of us climbed to the top of the pyramid-temple and enjoyed the view for awhile. It astounds me how flat Yucatan is; on top of these pyramids, one can see for miles! The terrain may be flat, but the jungle is dense and makes it difficult to see anything but the trees (because there is really nothing else to see!!). 

On the left side of the near-replica at Mayapan (of El Castillo from Chichen Itza), archaeologists have found a structure that contains murals. It is quite difficult to make out the shapes and symbols that were once clearly portrayed on these silent stone walls, but the bright and colorful pigments are still visible. Just looking at these photos again makes me excited about the knowledge that the Maya scribe-artists were once painting (and carving and writing) images, symbols, and hieroglyphs at these sites. 

After we finally climbed down from the top of the main pyramid at Mayapan, we made our way over to the building that closely resembles El Caracol at Chichen Itza, the so-called observatory with a circular structure. Set in front of this miniature Caracol, the sculpted visage of Chaak, the Maya Rain God, displays his importance and prestige, his connection to the observation of the sky. Our Maya Profe Ismael offered to take a few photos of me as I stood next to Chaak (with the long, protruding and curving nose) and in front of the observatory. Also a part of the architecture in this area of Mayapan, hieroglyphs (and other symbols) have been carved into the stones, but I had to look for a few minutes at several stones before I found them. No matter how many ancient Maya sites I go to, I am always fascinated by the ingenuity and complexity of these architectonic structures. 

I had waited almost three years to come here to Mayapan, and I finally got here. There were two people at Mayapan not with our group so we basically had the site all to ourselves. It fascinates me that so many tourists only go to places like Chichen Itza (with good reason!) but sites like Mayapan are just as compelling and distinct (well, maybe to someone like me they are!). Our visit was pretty much over when the dark clouds appeared and we definitely had to get back into our van. But our final stop before leaving Mayapan was this small, restored room on top of a shorter pyramid-temple that contains a mural painting. It was difficult to get good shots of it because the room is enclosed by stones. There is only a slight opening at the top of the structure through which I was able to snap a few pictures. Although a somewhat "lesser" site and "copy" of Chichen Itza, Mayapan delivered the goods and I thoroughly enjoyed myself.

Tecoh, Telchaquillo, and Hacienda Tepich

One of the highlights (at least for some of us) of the same day that we went to Mayapan was the cenote found in Telchaquillo (in the municipality of Tecoh). This was the day that I started getting sick, so I did not go swimming in the cenote (maybe I was already sick? I can't remember). Anyways, our Maya profe Ismael made an offering of a few candles to the cenote and some of the people in our group then went swimming. Cenotes (say-no-tays) have always been sacred sites for the Maya and I can understand why. One must leave the surface of the earth to travel downwards toward the Underworld. Much like caves, cenotes mark this physical transition between two very different realms and the ancient Maya (as well as the modern day Maya) respect and revere cenotes because of this marked difference. The state of Yucatan (as well as the entire Yucatan Peninsula) contains several unique geographic features within the Maya region, but the cenote is possibly the most common one. I took a few pictures of the church in Telchaquillo and one of the roads that have become so familiar to me in Maya towns. They seemingly lead to "nowhere" but they are roads on which various people live and work. 

Here are a few pictures from the Maya town of Tecoh. The 90 year old, one-armed storyteller from the film Apocalypto (he is the man who recounts a story around the fire) lives here in Tecoh (we had a possible meeting with him, but unfortunately he was quite sick and could not receive visitors). It is a lovely town and much larger than other Maya pueblos that I have visited. The people here are very friendly and open. I even got to speak Maaya with a few of the locals. The church of Tecoh is very nice (as most of the churches in Mexico are- at least on the inside) and we barely missed a wedding that had just taken place (and yes, that is Emily's shoulder and arm that made their way into my picture!!). Here at Tecoh, as with most towns in Mexico, a Catholic Church is part of the center of the town.

After our busy and fun-filled day, we stopped at Hacienda Tepich for our afternoon meal. I ate empanadas de queso with a spicy red salsa on top. They were delicious! The grounds of this hacienda are gorgeous! I loved this place even though it is in the process of being renovated and refurbished. During the zenith of henequen production in Yucatan (by the 1880s Yucatan produced almost 90% of the rope and burlap bags used worldwide- needless to write, Yucatan was one of the wealthiest states of Mexico during this time period) more than 200 large haciendas were dedicated to the cultivation of henequen, the "green gold." It was a busy day, but I am always more than glad to visit an ancient Maya site and see parts of Mexico that I have not seen before. 

My Host Family and Scenes of Merida

For the three weeks that we had class in Merida (yes, in the state of Yucatan), I was placed (as all other Level II and Level III students were) in a host family's home. Generally, my stay with Dona Hortensia and her grandson Felix Antonio was great. The food was also pretty scrumptious and I was so thankful to be the only student with air-conditioning (and it was in my bedroom!!). So this is Dona Hortensia's house. I loved the cactus and maguey plants that were just outside the front doors. I had to include a picture of Dona Hortensia and me, and also a picture of us with her daughter Sorida (Sor-Ida) and Sor Ida's son Felix Antonio. And, of course, I befriended the family dog Pancho, the cutest and sweetest little chihuahua that I have ever met. I was so thankful to stay with such a nice family.

The last full day that I spent in Merida I walked around the centro, taking pictures and doing the whole touristy thing. After spending three weeks in Merida, I realized that I had not taken many photos because I have been to Merida twice before and I felt like I had already taken the pictures that I wanted to. Anyways, the bright pink building is the Palacio Municipal. Throughout its history, it has been painted different colors, the latest iteration of which is this pink color. It sits on the opposite side of the Plaza Principal of Merida, a beautiful zocalo or town square where the Meridianos casually pass the day as they try to avoid direct sunlight and the hot, hot humidity of the state of Yucatan. I've also included a few pictures of the huge cathedral in Merida, "La Catedral de San Ildefonso," built from 1562-1567. Its architecture resembles the typical Franciscan Renaissance style and I must say that it is enormous inside! Another photo shows the facade of Casa Montejo, dated to 1549 and attributed to Francisco de Montejo, the son of the supposed "conqueror" of Yucatan. I thought that I would also put up a photo of the street I walked down to catch my bus after classes to make the half-hour trip to my host family's house in the neighborhood of Mexico Oriente.

Here is the so-called "Monumento a la Patria," or "Monument to the Homeland (Fatherland)." Created in 1956 by the Columbian artist Romulo Rozo, this fabulous stone sculpture showcases with several images the various epochs of Mexican history from pre-Spanish invasion to the Colonial Period to Independence and then the Mexican Revolution from 1910-1921. It's a beautiful monument that appears quite unique (and I find it fascinating that it was sculpted by a Columbian and NOT a Mexican!!). Anyways, the sculpture incorporates Mexica iconography (like the eagle devouring a snake as it sits on a cactus), Maya imagery, and a collective, nation-state endorsed collection of images. I had to run across the street and avoid being hit by the many cars that traverse this roundabout on the famous street in Merida called "Paseo de Montejo" (where a bunch of old colonial mansions have been restored and are used for offices, stores, restaurants, etc.).