More Chiapas: Bonampak and Yaxchilan

Bonampak is a relatively small Maya site but I truly enjoyed being able to visit this place right smack in the middle of the jungle! Bonampak is a Classic Period (250CE-800/900CE) site that was subjected to Piedras Negras and then Yaxchilan. Most of its architecture dates from about 580CE-800CE. It is famous for its murals found in structure 1 (Temple of the Murals-in one of my pics below you can see structure 1 to the far right with scaffolding) but I was impressed with Bonampak because of its location in the middle of nowhere and even for its diminutive nature, I found it to be fascinating particularly for what we still do not know. I was very excited to see the murals for myself and to experience my 2nd Maya site (Yaxchilan was earlier that day and knowing now that Bonampak was subjected to the power of Yaxchilan makes sense because of its smaller size and its proximity to Yaxchilan). Anyways, I loved seeing two Maya sites in one day. I cannot wait to post my visit to Palenque, but these two sites were impressive in their own ways.

Here are some of the images from the famous Bonampak murals which date to about 790CE, just before the beginning of the ninth century. They were painted as frescos and I am amazed that they even still exist (after more than 1200 years!!) and can be seen! I was absolutely astounded by these murals; and so ecstatic to be able to see these firsthand, with my own eyes. I know that it's a bit difficult to see the images; over time they have really faded and we were only allowed into two of the three rooms as one of them, I guess, is being reconstructed. Also, it is difficult to take pictures of these murals without a flash (because of course that is not allowed) and you aren't allowed to really enter the room; there is railing that prevents you from going past the first two or three feet into the room. But I thoroughly enjoyed coming to Bonampak to see these still impressive murals that document a procession of musicians, the sacrifice of scribes (which is of special interest for me and my thesis), a king being dressed and attended to by royal courtiers, and other interesting court activities.

Although Bonampak is famous for the murals of structure 1, I found that these stelae were fascinating and very detailed. The largest one is quite large and found in the middle of the grounds at Bonampak. Bonampak is not a big site but it was very interesting and I am so glad that I was able to come to this site and witness the murals, the stelae, the dense jungle, and the intricacies of a smaller Maya site.

This final series of five photos are of Yaxchilan. I made a little error when creating this blog entry but I don't really care that it's a little out of sequence. So this shows what has been called the smallest ball court in Mesoamerica, the front of the Temple 33, some other buildings around the site of Yaxchilan (including the long descent from the Temple 33 to the ground), and the Ceiba tree which was and is an important element for the Maya.

So the very first Maya site that I have ever been to was Yaxchilan (Yash-chee-laan). I absolutely loved it! We had to get on these little boats and take a 45min ride on the Usumacinta River in order to get to Yaxchilan (in

the picture looking out from the boat Mexico is on the left and Guatemala is on the right). Yaxchilan is right in the middle of the jungle so it was rather humid. It is situated on a bend in the Usumacinta. It's location provides a natural area of surrounding hills that the Maya viewed as a horizon calendar and the early rulers of Yaxchilan no doubt substantiated their right to power by reading the interplay of astronomy and landscape. Some inscriptions found at Yaxchilan indicate that the Classic Period dynasty was started by King Yopaat B'alam I in 359CE. The inscriptions also display Yaxchilan's involvement in the skirmishes of the day, particularly in regards to Piedras Negras, Yaxchilan's closest neighbor. Yaxchilan is famous for some wooden lintels that were found at the site but that now reside in foreign museums. It is a rather large site and I loved seeing the main parts of it.

This is actually the backside of Temple 33. I thought that it was fascinating to see this structure through the trees as we came walking up the path. This site is literally right in the middle of the jungle. Also, when they first excavated this building, they found the beheaded statue and wondered where the head could be. As they further excavated, they found the head in the very next room. I thought that was interesting. It was extremely hot and humid as we walked around Yaxchilan but of course, I enjoyed it because it was, after all, my very first Maya site to visit.

And here are a few more images from Yaxchilan. It is a beautiful site and I really enjoyed being here. The Ancient Maya were great builders but they never figured out a "true" arch and I find that fact interesting. Because of that, I am including a picture of the "Maya" arch which allowed them to expand upon spaces but not like they could have if they had known about a true arch. Anyways, the site was pretty big but we were only given an hour and a half with the guide so we could only see and speak about the main buildings around Yaxchilan.

A Few Views of Chiapas

I had to include some of my favorite photos of Canon del Sumidero, our very first stop in Chiapas. The Canon (or canyon in English- sorry but I can't seem to be able to add accent marks and the first n in canon is missing a tilda, that little squiggly mark that makes it sound like a 'y') is located in Chiapa de Corzo, the first little pueblo that we went to. So we all got into these little boats and took an hour-long ride throughout the canyon and some of it was really breathtaking. I wasn't too crazy about seeing this crocodile up close and out in nature but luckily he/she didn't come after me (I knew it just couldn't wait to attack me and eat me- that's a nice irrational fear that I share with some of my sisters). Anyways, it was a great start for my trip to Chiapas and I cannot wait to post more from the trip!!

The first few of these pics are from San Cristobal de las Casas, one of the main towns in Chiapas that the EZLN (Ejercito Zapatista de la Liberacion Nacional) took control of during their uprising on January 1st, 1994, the day that NAFTA went into effect. I really liked San Cristobal; the weather was rather mild compared to other places in Chiapas and I really liked the church on the main square. We only had a few hours here in the afternoon before we had to get to sleep and be up and ready to go the next morning. I hope that I can someday go back and spend more time there. I also included a few pics of the Cascadas (Waterfalls) in El Chiflon. They were really pretty and the one that I am standing in front of was by far the biggest and longest one as it dropped from far above where we were.

Here are some pics from Comitan, a beautiful little pueblo found in the heart of Chiapas. I thought that the yellow church was rather unique and the buildings surrounding the zocalo of Comitan were also pretty and different. And I included another few pics from Laguna Montebello. Chiapas is a very beautiful state and the greenest one that I have seen in Mexico. There are so many forests and jungles and the landscape is basically all green, including the surrounding hills and mountains.

And here are a few more images from Chiapas. I was pleasantly surprised to find myself at the Guatemala border, crossing illegally and enjoying every minute of it. It really makes me want to actually visit Guatemala but I found the experience quite amusing. A few of these pictures are of the borderlands between Guatemala and Chiapas and one of the photos is from Laguna Montebello, a beautiful place found in the dense forests of Chiapas (where else?) that has many lagunas.

Tecalli de Herrera and Tepexi El Viejo

One Saturday morning, my friend Javier and I decided to travel around the southern region of our state of Puebla. We grew a little weary towards the afternoon and it was kind of Javier to drive for extended periods of time but Puebla is not that big of a state. We first stopped in Tecalli de Herrera and visited the Ex-convento de Tecalli, the first picture. What remains of it is quite impressive although there is no roof on the main part of the structure. I wanted to include a few pictures of a mural on one wall and a pic of the baptismal font originally used by the Franciscan order here at the convent. The construction began in 1540 and was completed in 1559 or something like that. Tecalli at one time was home to Tolteca-Chichimeca peoples or at least part of their area. The convent was abandoned in 1643 when the Bishop of Puebla was at odds with those that ran the convent and lived there. It was quite interesting and of course, with my handy student id, I got in for free. I just love that because wherever we go, I can usually get into these places for free. That's as it should be! It was a fun day and I got to know a little bit more about this state of Puebla.

The second part of our journey took us to a pueblo called Tepexi. Tepexi is famous for all of its marble and onyx that is extracted from the surrounding landscape. There are tons of stores and little shops that sell everything marble and onyx. This first church is the church of Tepexi and the second, colorful one is from some little town on the way back to Puebla. After eating a few tacos stuffed with "pura papa" (or potato puree and chiles), Javier and I went to the archaeological site of Tepexi El Viejo. The Popoloca peoples of this part of Mexico constructed the buildings at the site in the Postclassic period (1200CE-1519CE) and were taken over by the Tenochca Mexica in 1503. Anyways, as we were driving all over Tepexi, looking for this site, we noticed a family of five sitting and playing at the side of the road. Javier pulled over and asked them if we were on the right road for Tepexi El Viejo and they said yes and asked if we could give them a ride to the site. Javier agreed and so they got into the bed of Javier's truck and guided us around the site, telling us what they knew. It was fun and interesting to say the least.

Here are a few other pics from around Tepexi El Viejo. I am disappointed that the INAH (Instituto Nacional de Antropologia e Historia) has not done much with this site. It could definitely use some excavation and organization and of course, that requires funding. I also think that there could be better signs (or really just some signs) that lead to the site. But people, whether Mexican or tourist, aren't really interested in smaller sites such as this one. People want the big and majorly impressive sites because of course those are much more profound and interesting. However, these Popoloca peoples lived here, constructed these pyramids and I find it fascinating. The Mexica did march all the way from Tenochtitlan in order to control this site so at least for them it did carry some weight and importance.

My Mom and Dad Visit!!

My mom and dad came down to Cholula to visit me for a week! I was really excited to see them and thankful that they added me on to their many places to visit during their annual summer trip across the US. And this summer, they were able to travel a bit more south than L.A. and we had a great time. I loved being able to try out different restaurants, go to Oaxaca (again!! I love that place), and share time with my parents around Cholula, my home for almost a year now. So of course I had to take my parents up on top of the Great Pyramid of Cholula and show them the surrounding valley (and La Iglesia de la Senora de los Remedios on top of the pyramid). I promised my dad that I would add a picture of Popocatepetl (aka Don Gregorio) so here is a shot of that active volcano. We had a great time in Oaxaca, going to Monte Alban and Mitla, two of the many sites in and around Oaxaca. I loved seeing my parents and the time just came and went way too fast. It was the highlight of my summer so far and I love my parents so much and would not be having this entire experience without their love and support. Thanks mom and dad for a wonderful and full week here in Cholula!

So here are some pics of Mitla, originally a Zapotec site in the state of Oaxaca. The name Mitla is a corruption of the Nahuatl 'mictlan' or "place of the dead" and the Zapotec name has a similar meaning. The site of Mitla was used by the kings of Zaachila (which was the seat of the valley's most prestigious lineage) as a place to consult the highest Zapotec priest, resolve disputes among nobles, and as a burial ground. This first picture is of the Group of the Columns and the second is of one of the tombs. Among the Zapotecas and the Mixtecas, the dead were a part of the family, housed in tombs underneath the house. Mitla contains a set of five elite residential compounds which were first established in the Classic Period (250ce-800ce). Aren't my models so adorable together?

Here are a few more images from around Mitla. The intricate designs called "grecas" are truly amazing and extremely interesting. I was really excited that my mom and dad were so willing to go with me to this site. I've been to Oaxaca a couple of times before but never made it to Mitla. Thankfully, the thick clouds that hung over our heads did not release any rain. It is a very interesting site and I am so happy that I was able to visit another ancient site (and this time with my parents!).